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The wait is nearly over
June 6th, 2006
It's been four years since the last World Cup finals, nearly three years
since the 2006 qualifiers started and six months since the final draw.
The wait is nearly over and we're less than 72 hours away from the
long-awaited feast of football.
Today, in my first full day in Germany, I experienced the growing
excitement. World Cup fever is on the streets, in the shops, and in
conversations everywhere.
It's even in people's prayers - but let me return to that subject.
I discovered today that slim German women can show their patriotism by
buying swimwear that would (only just) protect their modesty in black, red
and yellow.
I learned that some businesses are adopting national teams. The bakery at
Ulm's main train station has a big sign that says "We like Togo" and it's
decorated with the small African country's flag.
I watched as a display of large soccer balls (with a diameter of about 7
or 8 metres) was erected outside Ulm's cathedral.
It's happening people. Are you ready?
I'm more than ready. Today was my second-last day without football before
the tournament kicks off. Tomorrow, I get to see Australia play
Liechtenstein and that just leaves Thursday - World Cup Eve.
Ulm is a pleasant place. It's a small city but notable for a couple of
reasons: its cathedral has the tallest steeple in the world; and Albert
Einstein was born here.
It was also the home of Albrecht Berblinger and he sounds more like my
kind of guy. He was a tailor and, nearly 200 years ago, he built a flying
machine and tried to glide across the River Danube.
Berblinger didn't make it to the other side and had to be rescued.
Nevertheless, he is often recognised as the inventor of the hang glider.
Construction began on Ulm's cathedral in the 14th century and it was
completed more than 500 years later.
The steeple is 161.53 metres high and, for 4 Euros, you can climb the 768
steps which take you to a height of 143 metres.
Now don't go telling anyone, but I would have probably gone up if I had to
pay 40 Euros for the privilege. I can't help myself when I get the chance
to climb to a great height - I simply have to do it.
It was actually an easy climb. The spiral staircases are relatively wide
and there are iron-protected windows letting a lot of light and outside
air in. It's not likely to get hot and stuffy and you're also less likely
to feel claustrophobic (if that can be a problem for you). The dome at St
Peter's in the Vatican, for example, has a lot less space (overtaking
someone is impossible) and not much light or fresh air.
Of course, the views are magnificent when you reach the top. Despite the
heavy clouds, my photos weren't bad (though, in keeping with some of the
luck I've had lately, the sun came out about ten minutes after I left the
cathedral and the sky was blue from then on).
The rest of the cathedral is also quite nice. The stained-glass windows
are particularly colourful.
Earlier I mentioned that the World Cup was in people's prayers. Inside the
cathedral there is a message board where people can write a prayer on a
small piece of paper and pin it up.
You know where this is going don't you? Yes, you guessed, one of the
prayers (I swear this is true) says the following:
Dear Lord. This is a prayer for all Australian soccer fans. Please help
the Aussies to get to the next round. They deserve it.
This prayer (and, no, I didn't write it) had yesterday's date on it so I'm
guessing that the author got out of Rotterdam straight after the
Netherlands-Australia match finished.
Much of Ulm's city centre looks how you'd expect many European cities to
look - tight paved streets lined with historic buildings. The nicest
building in Ulm is the Rathaus (the Town Hall). It is beautifully painted
and includes a wonderful astronomical clock that dates back to the 16th
century.
I also walked on the old city walls along the Danube. Some decent café's
on those walls allow you to relax in the open with fine views over the
river.
Eventually I found the spot where my mate Albrecht Berblinger jumped from
in his attempt to glide across the river. It's not exactly a daunting
height but let me assure you that if his flying machine was completely
useless, he wouldn't even have made it as far as the water.
If you're ever thinking of staying in Ulm, I wouldn't recommend more than
two days. It's lovely but, unless you're using it as a base to venture
elsewhere in the area, you'll eventually struggle to find things to do.
Tomorrow's Australia-Liechtenstein match doesn't kick off until 7.00 pm so
I might have a quiet morning. I have a busy few days coming up because I
was fortunate enough to get tickets for matches on the first two days of
the World Cup finals.
That's Friday and Saturday folks.
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